On our way back from our adventure on the cable car we headed to the main station in Freiburg to make our way to Staufen. I have to admit that I was more tempted to go back to our hotel for a nap but my boyfriend insisted it would be worth it, and it was! Staufen is only about half an hour from Freiburg, or it would have been just half an hour away had we not had to watch our train pull out of the platform before we could buy a ticket as a drunk local was having trouble with the ticket machine!
But when we eventually made it we headed straight to the Staufener Burg, the ruins of a castle on a hill surrounded by vineyards. It’s a nice gentle walk up to the castle and from the top, you are treated to stunning views of the Rhine Valley, the town of Staufen and the Black Forest.
The vineyards surrounding the castle, putting us in the mood for some more local wine!
Stunning views over the Rhine valley.
After we made it back down the hill we headed into the town, it sounds a bit cliche but it really did feel like stepping onto a film set! A really quaint and beautiful town. Staufen is also known for its link to Faust, as it is said that Staufen is where he met his end – there are lots of links to Faust in the town including murals and, of course, a wine named after him! You might also spot lots of plasters on the walls of the buildings in the town which say “Staufen darf nicht zerbrechen” (Staufen must not break). Due to a geothermal borehole created to heat the town hall, the town is now at risk of literally falling apart. You can find out more about the causes in this article.
The red block on the yellow building above represents a giant plaster with “Staufen darf nicht zerbrechen” written on it. It’s so sad that this beautiful town is at such a risk of literally falling apart.
For dinner, we stumbled upon a wonderful place. We had watched the Hairy Bikers on their trip to the Black Forest and they talked about Besen, so we wanted to experience one for ourselves. Besen are seasonal restaurants that traditionally open to use up a winemaker’s excess wine at the end of the season! You can spot a Besen by the broomstick outside. As we visited in May, we thought that perhaps this wasn’t truly authentic in terms of using up wine at the end of a season, however, the location and atmosphere was exactly what we expected. It was a large barn-like space that was full of locals and the food was incredible, and it was so cheap! We had wine and a lot of food and it only came to twenty euros. I’d recommend a visit but I’m not sure of the name of where we went, so just look out for the broomstick at the bottom of the castle hill…
Look out for the next blog with photos from the last stop on our trip, Heidelberg!